![]() In many cases, the PCB (printed circuit board) is prevents the salt cell from producing chlorine. Pools with algae problems or ineffective filters can also create a high chlorine demand that salt cells may have trouble keeping up with. Test the pool for the presence of phosphates, and if over 300 ppb, you should use a Phos-Free type of chemical phosphate remover. Phosphates and nitrates in the pool water provide nutrient-rich food for algae, which uses up your chlorine almost as fast as it’s created. If your salt cell is rated for 25000 gallons, and you actually have a 25000 gallon pool, it may have a hard time keeping up, especially in very cool or very warm water temperatures, or in the presence of phosphates. ![]() Salt Cells are sized according to the gallons in the pool, but it is common practice for manufacturers to size a salt cell as if it was operating 24 hrs per day. Set your multimeter to DC volts, and compare against the specs printed on the label or in the owner’s manual. ![]() This is done with the salt cell in boost mode, or otherwise on a high setting. Inspect incoming voltage with a multimeter to ensure it matches the specs on the controller label, or the owner’s manual. Check for loose wire connections on terminals (with power turned off) and power cords for discoloration or damage. The salt cell needs the proper voltage to operate correctly. Turn it on and look for tiny bubbles or cloudy water being created. When operating, you should also see tiny bubbles inside the chamber, producing what looks like cloudy water – that’s chlorine being created! If you don’t have a clear housing to view chlorine being made, many salt cells can be removed from the housing and placed in a bucket of salty pool water. If you have a clear housing around your salt cell, you can inspect the cell for cleanliness without disassembly. Terminal corrosion can be removed with an old toothbrush dipped into an acid solution. However, even self-cleaning cells need regular inspection, and perhaps occasional cleaning.Īlso important is to clean the electrode terminals, which can develop a corrosion similar to car battery terminals. Salt systems self-clean by reversing polarity on the metal plates, to slough off the collected calcium. Mineral deposits slow water flow and bridge the gap between metal plates, preventing the electrolysis from happening. ![]() Inspect Salt Cell:Ĭlean the salt cell regularly to remove calcium deposits. Sunny pools that don’t use stabilizer can often dissipate free chlorine as fast as it’s being put into the water. Perhaps more importantly, the Cyanuric Acid (aka conditioner or stabilizer) level must be 20-50 ppm for outdoor pools. While high pH can reduce the activity, making your chlorine sluggish and less effective. Low pH can accelerate the activity of chlorine, causing it to burn off faster. Your pH, Total Alkalinity, and Calcium Hardness should all be within range, so the chlorine has the most efficacy. Salt sensors can be faulty however, so it’s always a good idea to check your salt level with salt test strips. Full featured salt systems use a salt sensor that display the measured salt level and an indicator light that lets you know when the salt level drops below the minimum threshold. Each salt cell is calibrated to work within a certain range of salinity, generally around 3000 ppm. The Salt Cell needs a certain amount of salt in the water to convert the salty water to chlorine. If you have a clear salt cell housing, when the salt is producing chlorine, you can see tiny bubbles, giving the water a slightly cloudy appearance. Flow rates can be reduced by clogged pump or skimmer baskets, dirty filter, or closed directional valves. Full featured salt systems use a Flow Switch or sensor to measure water flow entering the salt cell, and will open the ciruit when flow rates are below a minimum threshold. The Salt Cell needs a certain amount of water flow to operate effectively. Many salt chlorinators also have a fuse inside the cabinet, designed to blow in the event of power overload, or a lightning strike. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or GFCI outlet test button. If the control panel has no indicator lights, that’s a good sign of no power. A simple way to check that power is on is to feel the power cord for warmth. The Salt Cell is powered by the control panel, and before it reaches the salt cell, the incoming 115/230 VAC is stepped down to about 7-9 VDC, by a transformer.
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